Adventures in Zona Cafeteria..March 2013..

( The dangerous and risky YES, to an adventurous  hike up on the Peidra Blanca, mountain 6000 feet high)

We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures that we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open -  Nehru

The ranch and the surrounding mountain owned by Bernardo

Since the 5 nites 6 days spectacular trekking trip to Ciudad Perdida...the lost city in the Tayrona Parque, I have not had a chance for hiking or trekking. Last night I told the hostel manager let me know if anyone wants to hike with me down to the beautiful Valle de Corcora. I am in the most romantically sensuous, the  Zona Cafetera region.

I ended up going alone. A three hours hike down the hill and I decided to take the ionic ride back on the historic ¨Willy¨¨ the Jeep. I wanted the horse ride too as some of the hostel mates were doing it today.

Sandals and no umbrella proved very difficult as there was horse pooed wet tierra to track and rain drizzles enjoying my challenge. Within fifteen minutes of the walk I was encountered by a creek which occupied the whole peatonal. leaving no ground to walk on. I treadled on by tactfully jumping from one stone to another…surprisingly ended up on the highway which led to Valle de Cocora. A gorgeous scenery on both sides of the highway.. Started taking pics ..totally fearless that I may be heading in the wrong direction. Not a soul on the road.

Two amigis at the ranch

Enjoying the evening with some Demenq shots..Salud!

An amigo walking with a horse appears out of nowhere to receive my Buenas Dias greeting. Judging from my accent he responded back in English. We walked fifteen minutes together and knew more about each other as some old friends do.

Bernardo..60, married second time with a Colombian as his American wife did not want to live in Colombia. Has lived in San Francisco and attended university in Honolulu. No children. Lots of cousins and siblings scattered all over Colombia and USA. Does not like hunting.. Loves the mountains around where he grew up, owns three mountains along with ranches which he rents… many horses and cows. Day after tomorrow he is entertaining eight of his cousins to his ranch. Last family get together was forty years ago.

Dreams do come true….

( “Without leaps of imagination or dreaming, we lose the excitement of possibilities. Dreaming, after all is a form of planning.”- Gloria Steinem)

Bernardo asked me to go with him to his ranch and to return with him when he comes back to receive his cousins after two days.

I ask how long is the trek?. Una houra.. came the reply. I agreed without a second thought, knowing his personality, by know. My instinct had a positive vibe about Bernardo.My friends later told me that I was crazy to accept the offer. 

Enroute to the ranch

After all I have to use the horse

Bernardo, busy with his hash pipe and whisky

Trespassing thr someone's property, which is very common and allowed

He offered his horse for me to ride; I refused as I get more tired on horseback than treading on Pacha Mama. We had a good laugh and shared our life experiences. The view was just out of the ordinary... ¨¨this is a way to heaven, my friend. Pointing to the most gorgeous lush mountain ranges¨¨ I agreed. The trek kind of difficult.. Up and down. Going from one mountain to another.. Climbing up to 6000 feet with a picturesque view but with some  chilly air confronting. Finally reached the ranch after passing through few small rios, the American owned pine jungles and the mud filled peatonals. My sandals wont hold in the mud. I jumped on the horse.  The final stretch was the worst.. an 80 degrees ascend. I could see the ranch. But it was already three hours in to the track. Bernardo tricked me with time. But he insisted that he does it in hour and a half. He lied to me because he needed some company and because he liked my company. We were both laughing. Bernardo is a very simple country man. 

The awful ranch and the heavenly scenery  

The hundred year old kitchen, with the  intact platforms and the wood logs cooking

        Fernando, at the ranch had prepared a nice sun cocho     soup and rice and freshly brewed coffee con leche.            We had Demeq.. the best brandy available in Colombia.

       As soon as the Sun goes down, you hit the bed. Early to bed and early to rise is the trick in these remote areas as there is no lite, no wifi, no TV..nothing . Just you and the stars and the moon and the hissing of the birds and small insects.
When in bed at the ranch, I was recalling my last night's wish.. Some company, may be a horse ride and good meal…all realized… and for free with a new down to earth friend. Is it Karma ? With four blankets to ward off the chill, I was warm enough to have a good nite sleep after a day filled with risk of going alone with a stranger into the thick of the jungle and a tough trek.

The saviours, the well built. well fed and  well looked after

Luckily, the milk man was going to town next morning. Bernardo asked me I could go with him, if I don’t want to stay another day at the ranch. I nodded yes. Because Bernardo would have insisted to come with him to another ranch some four hours further up.I did not trust him any more with time now.

Towering Palm trees ,  highest in the world, welcoming us..with all their splendour

We came the shorter route this time and reached the highway in just hour and  half.I hitch-hiked back to town, Salento. Nobody does that in Colombia, I was told. I was crazy. But Hougo and family were great. Not only they dropped me in city centre but took me out for a herbal tea and a chit chat. We exchanged contacts and parted.Am I lucky or are Colombian people so hospitable and welcoming?

The Hougo family, my new friends, gave me ride and entertained over herbal tea

Worried Roberto, the manager, back at the hostel, asked where was I last night? Perhaps the old man had forgotten my phone call to him.

Mind blowing beauty of the coffee  plantation, Salento

Ever welcoming , the coffee beans ready for harvesting, Ocasa finca, Salento

In the Eje Cafetero for two days…and I have yet to see the beautiful  Valle de Cocora and visit a coffee garden.. the two main attractions here. Roberto suggested I visit El Ocasa Finca…which is just half an hour walk. I walked forty minutes and asked a lady on the motorbike. How far?..She said another hour. Hahaha the Colombian distances and times...never trust. Looking at my innocent tired face…she offered me the ride. Forty minutes of walk through the Ocasa Finca, included a thorough knowledge of seeding, harvesting and the process involved… ending with a freshly brewed cup of coffee.

A cold shower , a trucha fish dinner and a beer ma-------de me sleep well into the nite.

Viva Colombia and her people.!! 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Other photos taken enroute Peidra Balanca ranch and Valle de Cocora, Salnto, Zona Cafeteria

Carnaval...Barranquilla, Feb08-12Feb

Colombia, January 19-April 6 2013

The fun filled Carnival days in Barranquiila, Feb 8-12,2013.

Adios Colombia....

The famous and the oldest church in Barrichura,Colombia

Tonite while I board the plane from Bogota airport, I take with me sweet memories of the people I met and the most exciting country I explored for almost seventy six days. I have never stayed this long in any other country except India.

I arrived here with mixed feelings..a country which have  stigmas like the centre of the drug dealers, the Mafia clan, the smugglers paradise and the guerillas ready for any opportunity to kidnap a foreigner apart from other violent activities. All exaggerated  stories from the past impressions.

A would be chief .mamu.., with a vision, 

The trip took me across the land.. from the jungles and rivers of  Amazonias to the largest Tyerona parque mountains range along the Atlantic .from the salt mines of the Boyaca to the caravan festival city of Brranquilla...from the lush valleys of the Salento cafetora regions to the Colonial township of San Gill.. from the busting grande city of Bogotá to the beauties of the Medellin... from the thermales of Pereira and Manisales to the  obleas and dulces of Buccarmanga..across the high snow capped peaks  of the Nevdos to the deserts of the North east..from the salsa capital of the south America.. Cali, to the drum beats of the Atlantic . 

With avibrant coffee picker , Salento, Zona cafeteria

Such a diversity of people and pacha mama.... ...awesome !

I chose to travel counter clockwise starting from Bogota..Zipaquira, Valle de Leyva, San Hill, Barichura,Baranquilla, Cartagena,Santa Marta, Tyrone Parque,Ciudad Perdida, Medellin,Cali, Leticia, Puerto Narnio, Cali, Manisales, Pereira,Salento,Armenia, Cajamarca, Ibaque, and back to Bogota...mostly by  bus and air,share taxis and hitch hike. 

 Used to spicy food but have started enjoying the Colombian food..and realized that Colombian food is not all that bland..try the salsas with picqiente green chilies .I  have gotten adjusted to the two meals a day habit...  heavy breakfast and a  early dinner and  a lite snack at nite.

Getting addicted to the Colombian coffee..where does the Chai ( Indian tea con leche and spices) go..donot know yet ?

I will take with me the tastes of the arrepas,enpanada, papa de rellana, choruso,pollo asados, bendeja paisa, trichuchas ,palatain fritos, bunelos, suncocho ,mote and the  ajiuako soup--- the lulo juice, panela lemon drink and  marraquirra and Champus juices amongst a variety of delicioso juices..

I stayed with couch surfers, friends`s ( from Canada`)

friends and families and  youth hostels.

Was honoured to become the chief ,in  Puerto Nanio, Amazonas.

I enjoyed every bit of the Colombian landscape...from the deep down snorkelling in the Atlantic ocean to the trekking  6000 plus feet high altitude in the Piedra blanca mountain in the Quindon state...Crossing   small  rios along with altura mountains to Ciudad Perdida... to the boat ride in the  widest river in the world..The Amazon... Enjoyed learning salsa and dancing in the nite clubs of Cali and watching the worry free happy Carnavalists in the streets of Barranquilla ...  drinking , gossiping and dancing till the wee hours after the parade..and experiencing hallucination with Ayahuaska drink in the deep jungles of Amazonias . Visiting the heroic and tragic  history in the national museos in Bogotá ..  was amazed to see so much gold jewellery in the Orro Museo ..the designs will challenge  any modern designer..

The curious little urchin in a remote village reserve.

Colombia  is  third growing economy in South America.But as a  naive observer, I see it growing faster..the universities and the schools are full of students with big ambitions and dreams.

Worlds second largest exporter of flowers...famous for its Emeralds,textiles,plastics,ferro alloys and of course the Colombian coffee..enjoyed all over the world .The transportation systems may beat any of the developed nation`s..the highways, the transmillion bus system in urban centres are very well designed and constructed.No wonder HSBC bank's economic perspective  for Colombia by 2050 as playing a vital role in the global economy.

The grandeur of the Majestic Amazon, River. Leticia, Colombian.

Colombia`s national parks are full of natural beauty, trails, hikes,lakes, rivers, mountains and are  complimented with facilities with well trained guides.

We are always striving to achieve higher goals. Colombia is not any different. The present Government is fighting hard to get rid of its dark sides..the smuggling, the Mafia  the drug lords, the guerrillas  the poverty, the orphaned children, the displaced ingeniousness people... but which nations does not have problems?

Perhaps the saddest part, which I found very alarming is the highest rate of divorces in spite of the fact that very few people get married as compared to other countries...1.5% per 1000.

Most of the people I made friends with, happened to be single moms, single dads, step fathers, step mothers in law, step sister, step grandfather and so on... .. And the remarried couples have children from other marriages either living with them or with their ex partners. It is hard for everyone especially for the children. Perhaps they have accepted this new relationships . I attended some family get togethers where all these ex`s and steps were enjoying together. The challenge to the institution of marriage`s survival   serious.No efforts seem to be initiated either by the church or the Government.

Fun time on the alst day in Colombia..Aguardiente prevailed.

 Last nite was a blast farewell party in Bogota at Clovis`s place, More than 18 newly made friends, drank, ate and danced together.I was humbled.

    I am indebted and very thankful to all my couch surfers, my hosts and the new friends who made my trip  a very enjoyable one.I take back with me  the sweet memories of great times we spent together. I am indebted to you all...Sandra, Tatiana,Diana, Ivon, Mary,Chistian, Vallentina, Xio,Idalba, Clovis, Lina, Sergio, Ivon S, Nicolous, Johana,Adireana, David, Guillermo,Gloria, Oliver,Dora, Fernando and Fernando and  parents,Linita, Soffy, Adriana,Pueblos, Carolina, Ruby,Favio,Luisa E, Nancy, Luisa,Bernardo, Hugo family, Michael, Adan, Norabala, Melida, Mariam...

God bless you all ..

Vivo Colombia !!!